Autumn hike in Sarek

DAy 1. Crossing Akkajaure – The Journey Begins

We arrive at Ritsem in the early afternoon. We begin the day by taking the boat together across Lake Akkajaure to Änomjálmne. Once on the other side of the lake, we hike below the tree line and pass STF Akka Mountain Lodge after about a kilometer. Perhaps we’ll say hello to the host as we pass. We cross the bridge over Vuojatädno to Ahkka. We are now at the tree line, and the trees are sparse. We continue to walk along the summer trail south towards Gisuris. The trail is frequently used during the summer, and many run or walk this popular route down to Kvikkjokk Mountain Station. We gradually adjust to the weight of our backpacks, the weather, being outdoors for an extended period and each other’s company.

As the evening approaches, we reach the meeting point of the three parks where Sarek, Stora Sjöfallet, and Padjelanta meet. Here, we will set up our tents for the night, cook or food, and perhaps take a quick dip.

Distance ~15km. Total climb ~200m

day 2. Through Wind-Battered Forests to Open Heights

We won’t get any closer to the Gisuris cabins than this as we leave the trail between the suspension bridges at the Three Parks Meeting and head east towards Nijak. We make our way up and above the tree line via a ridge and pass through a wind-battered forest before leaving the trees behind. We follow paths made by visitors and animals over time. We pass the reindeer herders’ cabin on top of the hill and set up camp a bit further a head from it, with a view of, among other things, Kantberget and Gavelberget. If the weather allows and there is still daylight left, there is an opportunity to take an evening walk without backpacks up towards Ruohtesvárásj.

Distance ~19km. Total climb ~400m

day 3. Waking Up in the Wild

We wake up in Ruohtesvágge, a powerful experience! Hopefully, we’ll see all the surrounding mountains unless the clouds are low. Perhaps, or more likely, there’s already snow on the high peaks around us. The mountain is covered with all the autumn colors, and it’s probably a bit frosty as we pack up for the day ahead. We continue down in the valley, walking along the paths, and if it works, along the sandbanks by the water and the vegetation beside it. We’ll cross a larger river during the day, and we’ll need to change shoes or tighten them a bit before crossing over. It feels wild, and if you haven’t experienced it before, many get the feeling of being truly out there. We round a mountainridge and lose a bit of height as we approach Skarja. We pass the outhouse and then the emergency shelter. Here, you can take shelter for a while and, if needed, leave a travel message. We don’t stop longer than to see and experience the place before we cross one of the few bridges in the area and look down at the rushing water that forces its way through the canyon. We set up camp near the watercourse Máhtumågåsj. We cook, talk about the day, and gaze out over the landscape and tomorrow’s challenging climb up to Snávvávágge.

Distance ~16km. Total climb ~330m

day 4. Autumn’s Embrace

We hope for good weather when we wake up and set off. We follow and hop a bit between the paths as we continue towards Pielaslätten. We make a visit up to Bielavárásj, Daniel often refers to it as the coffee hill. However, it’s usually too cold to have coffee on the hill, and we often hide behind it when we eat our snack. Still magical! We gain some elevation and tackle perhaps the hardest and most challenging part of the whole adventure. It’s steep and can be slippery, so it’s important to take it slow here, but also to stop and take in where we actually are.

When we reach the top, we stop by the stream for a hearty snack before tackling the final stretch to the lake Snávvájávrre, where we pitch our tents again. It’s often noticeable here that we’ve gained altitude; it’s cold in the wind and the landscape is barren. It’s a special landscape in many ways. Late afternoon/evening, we might have a chance to take on Låddebákte, a hike that takes about 3-4 hours.

Distance ~9km. Total climb ~430m

day 5. Tracing the Sandbanks

We do the usual morning tasks and continue walking along the lake in Snávvávágge. We might hum the meatball song (from a Swedish commercial) or “And I will walk 500 miles” or “These boots are made for walking” while our legs roll on by themselves. We’ve fallen into a rhythm, and the routines are starting to feel smoother. We approach the edge and the slope down to Rapadalen. Here, we’ll make several small stops. The first one is by a small lake.

We leave the backpacks here and walk up to a hill with a view of Rovdjurstorget, Rapadalen. We then head down to the tree line, and if the weather allows, we rest for a bit and enjoy the natural spectacle from the last plateaus before we’re surrounded by the birch forest. If we’re lucky, the ground will be free of snow, the wind will carry leaves from the trees, and autumn will show itself in its best light. Once we’re below the tree line, we turn left at a small intersection. We head out and follow the edge of the sandbanks in Rapaselet if the water levels are right, and finally find our intended little grassy hill by Alep Vássjájågåsj. In the evening, we have the chance to take the moose highway down to the sandbanks and watch for moose.

Distance ~14km. Total climb ~400m

day 6. A Day Without Packs

Depending on the weather, the wind, and how we’re feeling, we have a day to spend in the area, take a walk without backpacks, recover, play cards, sip coffee, and do a little of whatever we want. This day can happen earlier or later, depending on how the trip unfolds.

day 7. Through Forests and Streams to Stunning Views

We continue our hike in Rapadalen, surrounded by deciduous forest on small trails and possibly the sandbank. We stop to look at a waterfall and then make our way back to the trail. The trail is through dense birch forest, and the branches brush our sides as we walk between them. We round Lulep Spádnek, and after crossing a few streams, we leave the trail to gain some elevation. These streams usually mean that we take off our boots and wade in more suitable footwear. Our goal is to get above the tree line towards a peak marked with the number 1081, south of Suorkitjåhkka. We walk off-track and in a zigzag pattern. Here, we’ll camp with a fantastic view on a slightly flatter area on the slope. During one trip, we coined the expression “move slowly and steadily,” and that’s exactly what we’ll do. After our hike below the tree line and in the dense, wet vegetation, it’s nice to be back above the trees and enjoy the views as we look back from where we came, with Låddebákte in the distance.

Distance ~12km. Total climb ~580m

day 8. A Day of Adventure on the Way to Svinnje

We walk carefully on the stone blocks and take our time to enjoy the amazing view over Rapaselet, Skierfe, and Nammatj. We prioritize slow and steady progress so that each step is safe. We move stealthily as there are a lot of stones in this area. We hope for dry ground as everything becomes safer when we pass through the area. We scramble, balance, hop, descend steep slopes, and use all fours as we climb. We look for patches of grass to rest our feet and later cross a snowfield before finally reaching smoother ground. We force our way through the willow and get onto the trail north of Skiefe. We leave our packs there as we visit the summit. Once we feel ready, we take a bearing and head towards Kungsleden, and finally to Svinnje where we’ll camp. It’s a tough day with a wide range of challenges. Our only real deadline today is to reach Svinnje to catch the boat in the morning.

Distance ~20km. Total climb ~780m

day 9. From Sarek’s Challenge to Saltoluokta’s Comfort

Today, we take down the tents for the last time on this trip. We catch the morning boat to Sitojaure and then continue hiking north on Kungsleden towards Saltoluokta. We stand on the dock, waiting, hoping to get on the first boat if there are many people. After our trip in Sarek, this stretch feels relatively easy. However, we still have some distance to cover. The backpack is light now as we’ve eaten most of our food. Maybe we’ll eat our last Snickers as we stroll along? We’re expected to arrive at the mountain station around 4 PM. At Saltoluokta, a shower, sauna, room, and food await us. A cozy main building with chairs, a small shop selling postcards and perhaps salty chips.

Distance ~20km. Total climb ~190m

day 10. Time for reflection, a little bit of fun, and a relaxed farewell

We wake up in a bed after being out in the field for a longer period. Some sleep well, while others might find it strange not to have the cold air and wind right up close. Anyway! We meet in the dining room for breakfast. Maybe you’ve found some of the morning slippers to borrow, gotten stuck outside the entrance with coffee and a magical view, or perhaps we’ve agreed to take a dip by the dock before breakfast. After breakfast, we check out and leave our packs outside the reception. We take a short walk through the Sami village and old forest to give feedback and talk about the trip we’ve had while looking at the lichen and old stumps. We have lunch at the station and finally take the boat to Kebnats. It’s time to head home.