Nikkaluokta to Abisko

Day 1. Nikkaluokta

Our official start is at the large red wooden house in Nikkaluokta. Nikkaluokta is where my guiding journey began, and the area means a lot to me. Over the years, I have hiked here with family members, people from Taiwan, Korea, Thailand, and others. I hope we can meet here and head out into the mountains together. The first day will be a relatively easy hike below the tree line to Enoks by the lake Laddju. If it’s open, we will enjoy a fika before continuing on. After Enoks, the trail becomes narrower, rockier, and a bit undulating. Above and between the birch trees, we will catch glimpses of waterfalls and beautiful mountains in various formations. Maybe a helicopter will fly by on its way to Kebnekaise. At the end of the day, we will cross the bridge over Tarfalajokken and look for a good camping spot a few kilometers before the mountain station.

Day 2. Above the Tree Line

We start the day by hiking to the Kebnekaise Mountain Station, where we will take a moment to explore the old part of the station and enjoy a nice cup of coffee before heading out above the tree line onto the alpine tundra. We cross the wooden bridge and pass the dance floor as we move between the mountains. Somewhere here, we lose mobile signal. We will take short breaks to refuel, enjoy the views, and chat as we go. Our goal for the day is to get past the small lakes south of the trail. As the water begins its journey down to Singi, we also descend a bit, setting up camp with a stunning view. If the evening is nice, we will set up the tarp and gather under it to eat and chat before heading to our tents for the night.

Day 3. Sälka

We hope for good weather as we pack up our backpacks and head towards Singi. Once we reach the Singi huts, we will join the famous Kungsleden trail, a classic hiking route known worldwide, from Hemavan to Abisko. At Singi, we change direction and head north towards the Sälka huts, where we will stay for the night. We have the option of enjoying a wood-fired sauna and a traditional wash in the nearby river. We will sleep in tents but can relax in a chair for a while and perhaps pick something up at the kiosk if we feel like it.

Day 4. Tjäktjapasset

From Sälka, we continue north towards the pass—the highest point on the Kungsleden, and our highest point as well. We will climb at our own pace and meet at the meditation spot for a group photo with a magical view in the background. A little later, we will be at the summit cabin, where we can take in views from both directions. Some years, there may be a small snowfield here, and if that’s the case, we might toss a few snowballs for fun. From the summit cabin, the trail descends. We pass the moon-like landscape filled with stones and then enter grassy fields reminiscent of scenes from The Sound of Music. We cross a wider but easier river and walk the final stretch to a large, flat grassy field where we will set up camp for the night. If the conditions are right, we might take a stroll in the evening. There is an old turf hut, a beautiful waterfall, and good hunting grounds for finding reindeer antlers on the ground.

Day 5. The Beach

Today, we will encounter some boardwalks mixed with rocks and a few suspension bridges. We are now more than halfway through and closer to Abisko than backtracking to Nikkaluokta. We will spot the Alesjaure huts far away by the lake on a small hill, but there’s still a long way to go when we see them. Once we reach them, there’s a kiosk where we can enjoy a fika indoors, with a window facing south. Perhaps you recognize the view from many photos of the area—or maybe from the box of some Primus stoves! If you ask the staff, they may show you the photo album or tell you about the taxi driver who began visiting here after seeing the black-and-white film about Kungsleden. A bit past the Sami settlement is a waterfall called “The Phantom’s Fall.” Can you guess why? Once we feel ready, we will hike the final stretch to a small peninsula, camp on the beach there, and hope for a nice evening with a chance for a quick swim. If it’s too windy, we will shelter in the nearby heath.

Day 6. National Park Border

Today, we will have some ups and downs, passing the boat dock and, hopefully, finding water at the little creek before the reindeer fence. We’ll eat there and enjoy still being above the tree line. Take in the mountains, glaciers, and panoramic views around us. Today, we will hike down Kieronbacken and below the tree line. We pass a small suspension bridge and set up camp shortly after. If it’s not raining and there’s enough firewood, we’ll light a fire to gather around. It will be our last night in the field, and we are close to the boundary of Abisko National Park.

Day 7.  Abisko Mountain Station

We might start the day with a nice cup of coffee before packing up our gear for the last time and hiking into Abisko National Park. A bit inside the park, on our left, we will pass a fortification memory that we can visit if interested. The Abiskojaure huts are also accessible for a visit as we pass by. There will be quite a bit of boardwalks and eventually easier gravel roads. We pass a lake on our left, walk past a turf hut, and then see the water become wilder as it leaves the lake. At the small camp spot between the suspension bridges, we’ll take a break. We’ll check the firewood supply and, if available, cook our meal while enjoying the warmth and flames. Near the canyon, we’ll stop again for a group picture and take 10 minutes to reflect on the days that have passed. The sound of the rushing water is powerful but beautiful. We continue past the railway and the main road, stop to view the paintings, pass the railroader museum, and climb the last hills to the mountain station. We’ve reached our goal! A warm shower, good food, and a sauna (if you wish) await us, and last but not least, a bed.

The following morning, breakfast is included before the program concludes, and perhaps a quick swim in the canyon before heading home.